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January 7, 2009

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K and F are thankful for Da Campo Osteria. (Photo by K)

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K AND F

MORE INFO:

Da Campo Osteria by Todd English
★★★★★ (out of five)

3333 NE 32nd Ave
Ft Lauderdale, FL 33308
954-564-4400
www.dacampofl.com
www.illugano.com


K and F want you to send them somewhere!  Have somewhere you’ve always wanted to go but couldn’t?   Want to torture them with your worst experience.  Email your suggestions to editor@southfloridablade.com.

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Da Campo Osteria is Italian cuisine at its finest

By K AND F
NOV. 26, 2008
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“Oh, jeez.  You’re wearing that again?” I teasingly asked F, as we prepared to head out the door.

“Of course I am.  Everybody loves my scarf.” 

“Everybody” in this sense referred to a select few patrons at Dada, a funky artsy café in Delray we visited on a chilly night a few weeks ago (see our review from Nov. 6!).  F gets a few compliments, and he’s never taking the thing off again.  Nevertheless, I humored his newfound love of draping fabric dramatically, with the knowledge that once the cool weather departs for good, thankfully, so too does the scarf.

Personally, I was of the opinion that I looked pretty darn nifty—I had become partial to a “Mad Men” 1960’s geeky-chic, business, Honey-I’m-home style adopted for these cool nights.  The look was much more fitting for our current outing: to nationally-known executive restaurateur Todd English’s newest endeavor, Da Campo Osteria.  Known for his rustic Mediterranean cooking style, English’s new restaurant is located in the il Lugano Hotel on the Intracoastal Waterway.  (F and I were not entirely familiar with il Lugano either, so to give you a visual: it’s in the same parking lot as Dudes Bar.)  From the street, one would not realize there was a restaurant located within this archetypal condominium; but just past the attractive doorman and a short walk down an art-lined hallway gives way to this new, hidden gem.  An illuminated wine bottle wall entrance opens to a modest, inviting lounge area, intimate dining room and open kitchen all contemporary in design.  I called it mid-century modernized.  Just like my ensemble, thank you very much.

 F and I were promptly seated by a friendly hostess and instantly felt at home by wait staff who are attentive and informative and in no way rushing to get you through service.  As F and I were plotting our way through the menu, a table across the room piqued our curiosity level.  Aside from the fact that the woman seated with her obvious gay son and partner bore a striking resemblance to Barbara Eden, there was excitement with some type of tableside preparation.   Our server informed us they were relishing in the signature starter of freshly made mozzarella pulled tableside ($15).  We had to get us some of that. 

 The mozzarella service commences thusly: a gentleman bearing only a large copper bowl and a steaming pitcher of heavily salted water talks you through the process of cheese making as you witness, within an entertaining five minutes, the transformation from the oatmeal like consistency of curds and whey to the shiny, flavorful ball of gooey goodness known as fresh mozzarella (pronounced “moots-a-RELL,” thank you). 

With six uniquely appealing preparations to compliment the lonesome cheese round, we squabbled over our individual likes; I missed partaking in the decadent “Dolce” with honey spiced walnuts and blonde raisins, while F admitted defeat and passed on the Prosciutto and fig olive oil.   Our compromise was the simple, fresh and traditional Caprese consisting of juicy Sun Gold tomato slices, sweet basil leaves and luscious swirls of flavorful olive oil and rich balsamic.  Semplicemente favoloso! 

F and I had been sampling new recipes for our Thanksgiving menu earlier that day, so we were already loosening our belts a bit.  For that reason, we opted to keep our selections small and omit the temptations from the larger plates. With an enticing array of dishes like Yellowtail Snapper Marsala ($32) and Basil Crusted Chicken with Heirloom Tomatoes ($26) taunting us from the Main Courses we had to force ourselves to behave.

Although we had also been drinking wine all afternoon as well.

“I’ll give you a quarter if you go ask Barbara Eden for her autograph,” I dared F. 

“That is not Barbara Eden.  She wouldn’t be wearing a fake fall like that lady.”

“Gutless.” 

Before I could goad F into ruining the evening for Ms. Eden’s doppelganger, our beautifully plated entrees arrived.  I delighted in the Butternut Squash Agnolotti ($19), a harmonious harvest of flavor.  Homemade, delicate pasta pillows are filled with a sweet and fluffy squash puree and tossed in a deliciously salty sauce, which makes for the perfect balance of contradicting spices on the palette.

F, unable to forget his previous craving, favored the Fig and Prosciutto Pizza ($14).  Generous in both size and taste with caramelized figs and thinly sliced ham layered atop fluffy ...

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